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COPYRIGHTED BY 
A. J. YOUNG, SR. 



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MAR -9 i9i8 



FROM THE PRESSES OF 

HUNTINGTON BEACH NEWS 

HUNTINGTON BEACH, CAL. 



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The old home where I have carried on my experiments for twenty-three years. 





A. J. Young, Sr., the potato expert, who has gained his 
knowledge through experimenting and growing the 
crop for twenty-three years. 




AUTHOR'S PREFACE. 

HIS book is written with the hope of fulfilling 
the various needs of the potato growers of Cal- 
ifornia. Many suggestions will also prove ben- 
eficial to the eastern grower. Since the potato 
is the foremost food plant of the American people, the 
author has endeavored to give in as brief and complete form 
as possible the much-needed and valuable information. 
Since the author has made a life study of this problematical 
plant, there are some profitable suggestions unfolded to the 
reader within these few pages. Such knowledge is the 
author's personal experience, having learned from this, the 
world's greatest teacher. 

The book contains some interesting experiments on the 
plant as well as the practical culture of the potato. 

A thorough study and strict observance of the instruc- 
tions herein will insure the most amateurish growers of Cal- 
ifornia remarkable success. 
July, 1917. A. J. YOUNG, SR. 



CONTENTS 



Page 
Chapter 1. Breeding 15 

Pollination and crossing plants, and propagation of new 
varieties. 

Chapter 2. Selection and Care of the Seed Potato 25 

The cause of "run out" potatoes. Qualities good seed 
should have. "Hill selection." "Greening." 

Chapter 3. Cutting and Preparing the Seed to Plant 45 

How to cut, and size, of seed piece. Liming the cut 
seed. The use of whole seed in California. 

Chapter 4. Preparing to Plant and Planting 55 

Fertilizers. Essential plant foods in soil. Soils best 
adapted to culture of potatoes. Preparation of soil. 
Planting seasons. 

Chapter 5. Cultivation and Irrigation 67 

First cultivation. How to irrigate. Hill culture or 
ridge system. Level cultivation. 

Chapter 6. Disease and Its Prevention 75 

Spraying. Preparation of Bordeaux mixture and Paris 
Green. Insect pests. Causes and prevention of dis- 
eases. 

Chapter 7. Harvesting and Marketing 85 

How to grade for market. Sources of influence upon 
quality of the potato. 



TABLE OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Page 

The old home 3 

A. J. Young, Sr 5 

Potato bloom ready for pollination 13 

Potato fruit and seed 17 

A perfect two-year seedling 21 

The best hill of seedlings I ever produced 27 

A potato in good condition to plant 33 

Results of planting a potato when too old 37 

My 1916 field of potatoes 41 

A cutting ready for planting 53 

How to plant to reproduce on top of the vine 65 

Potato insect pests 71 

A potato affected with wilt 78 

The Scottish Chief potato is the best marketable tuber known 83 

Young's Early Harvest King 87 




The upper bloom shows the exact time for pollination. 



BREEDING 



15 



BREEDING 



mg. 



CHAPTER I. 




F all interesting studies of plant life, the prob- 
lems confronting the potato breeder, also the na- 
ture of the plant, are the most interesting to me. 
There are numerous difficulties in potato breed- 
He who would succeed must discover for himself 



these obstacles and overcome them. 

I have studied the nature of the potato, have experi- 
mented, have propagated many kinds, and have grown the 
potato extensively for about twenty-three years, and every 
day there are different problems confronting me, most of 
which I have solved, yet there is deep study ahead and 
much to be learned. I have grown potatoes from cuttings, 
and from such cuttings have grown four crops in one year, 
each cutting being taken from the vine that had been 
grown from a cutting. The first cutting was taken from a 
seedling, which would make four crops without using a 
tuber for seed. I have learned how to grow potatoes on 
top of the vine, and many more interesting experiments, 
and find there are always new ideas presenting themselves. 

Some of the problems confronting the potato breeder 
are: In some cases it is impossible to cross one desirable 
potato with another which has otherwise good characteris- 



16 BREEDING 

tics, because of non-production of fertile pollen. Again, 
he must grow a great number of varieties in order to deter- 
mine which have viable pollen. The climatic and soil con- 
ditions greatly influence the production of fertile pollen. 
There are some varieties of potatoes whose buds drop off 
before opening, and some that have a few flowers open but 
fall too soon. There are also some whose flov/ers live for 
several days but frequently the pollen is not fertile. Again, 
many times vv^hen the blooms do appear and the pollen is 
fertile, in some cases the seed balls or fruits are seedless, 
and if they do have seed it does not always germinate. In- 
stantly a question arises in our minds, "Is there a means by 
which we could produce this coveted fertile pollen ?" There 
are, however, a few varieties which generally produce via- 
ble pollen. The disease resistance of a tuber plays an im- 
portant part in this matter. 

After these diflSculties have been overcome, the ac- 
tual crossing of the plants is an easy matter. The plants 
to be selected for crossing should be strong and healthy, 
vv'ith good characteristics. The mother plant should be es- 
pecially strong, having a desirable feature that is lacking 
in the male plant, and the male plant possessing some char- 
acteristics which would make a good cross. 

There are two ways of pollination. First, nature's 
way, self-pollination. Second, hand pollination, of which 
there are several methods. 

One method of hand pollination is as follows : First, 
the female plant is deprived of its anthers. The anthers 
stand erect in the center of the flower, like a cone. These 
flowers are then covered with paper bags with some foliage 
to insure moisture, for proper development. After this, 
in about two days, the male plants are gathered, the pistil 
removed and the pollen jarred onto the emasculated plant. 







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Potato fruit and seed. 



BREEDING 19 

The pistil is the small, cylindrical form in the center of the 
anthers. Within a week's time the blooms will have either 
swollen or dropped, thus determining the success or failure 
of this method of pollination. 

Another method of hand pollination is: After the 
selection of the mother plant, the corolla, or inner petals, 
and the stamens are cut away before fully developed and 
then the blossoms are bagged. At the proper time for pol- 
lination, the pollen is collected from the male plant with a 
fine camel's hair brush and is then dusted on the mother 
plant. This is repeated for two successive days; that is, 
if the pistil has not fallen. When the fruit has begun to 
form, the paper bags are removed to allow free access to 
the air and light. When the seed balls are ripe, they are 
gathered and allowed to dry. They are then squeezed out, 
as they are liable to decay if left in the fruit. 

Still there is another method, one which the Japa- 
nese are said to use, and is very simple. The flower of the 
male plant, when in proper condition to pollinate, is dusted 
by hand onto the mother plant. The plant is then covered 
to keep stray pollen off the pollinated flowers. 

Another method, one which I have found best in my 
experience, one which is nearest nature's way, therefore 
we would conclude it to be best. I do not cut the flowers in 
any way, but when the flowers are to be pollinated, I limit 
the blooms to two bunches, and, with the use of a fine cam- 
el's hair brush, lightly dust on the pollen of the male to the 
mother plant. These always being desirable crosses. Be- 
fore this, however, when the mother plant is beginning to 
bloom, I cover it with a cheese cloth. A frame can be eas- 
ily made by pushing laths or sticks into the ground around 
the vine to keep the cheese cloth from touching it. Thus 
by the use of the cheese cloth the blooms have free access 



20 BREEDING 

to the air and light, and in no way can stray pollen fall upon 
the blooms. The proper time for pollination is about the 
second or third day of bloom. The pollination is repeated 
for two successive days ; that is, if the pistil has not fallen. 
The cheese cloth should be left on for about five or six days. 
When the fruits are thoroughly ripe they are gathered, 
seeds squeezed out, washed in a cheese-cloth bag, and al- 
lowed to dry. 

It is always a wise plan to select strong parent plants, 
because they develop larger and better seed. These seed 
in turn develop larger potatoes the first year from the seed 
than those from a delicate plant. It is of greater import- 
ance that the mother plant be strong than the male plant, 
and care should be taken in selecting the most vigorous ones. 

This is a fact not known by most potato experts, if any. 
The way of determining the actual fertility of the potato 
fruits or seed balls without the aid of a magnifying glass: 
The balls are partially or wholly covered with small, white 
pimples. The smooth fruits are rarely, if ever, good. 

I have, in selecting crosses, chosen those with about 
the same qualities, with the idea of improving them ; while 
at other times I have crossed the opposites, with the idea 
of obtaining diff'erent and better qualities. These ideas are 
both good, providing the crosses used possess favorable 
points. I have noticed that the potatoes not seemingly 
closely related have greater affinity for one another than 
those which are apparently related. 

I would not advise the potato breeder to use too much 
fertilizer on the first-year seedlings. This policy is followed 
by some, but is not a wise plan. The potato vines generally 
grow rank and scarcely any tubers are to be found. Some 
breeders use food material to induce variation, but the pota- 
to naturally tends to vary even if crosses within a variety 








A perfect two-year seedling 



BREEDING 23 

are used. However, after the first or second year from the 
seed, large vines do not indicate that such excessive top 
growth is opposed to the formation of tubers, as some be- 
Heve. I find that large vines make large tubers and a great- 
er quantity. But if a so-called "run out" or "stray" is 
found, it must be noted that the vine is overgrown and very 
few tubers are to be found. 

In selecting the seedlings from year to year, always 
choose the one nearest your own ideal of a perfect potato. 
Keeping this in mind, select and plant for eight years ; or, 
if planted twice a year, for four years. By this time your 
potato will have reached a true-to-type one. 

The seedlings must be grown several years in a com- 
parison test ; that is to determine the best type before a def- 
inite selection is made. The discovery of a way in which 
potatoes are bred up to a pure strain within less time is of 
great advantage to the potato world. 

By the use of the potato cuttings from seedling vines 
making four crops in one season, then the tubers produced 
used for early spring and fall planting for the next two 
years, the development would be shortened. 

In comparing and selecting the seedlings each year the 
qualities to be kept in mind, in addition to productiveness 
and uniformity in size and shape, are : 

1st. The largest seedling should be selected each year. 
By so doing the potato will have reached its highest state 
of development within a shorter period or will be a larger 
potato when developed, which is a quality the people of Cal- 
ifornia want. 

2nd. Select those that are hardiest, consequently less 
liable to disease. The vigorous potatoes are more drought or 
disease resistant, and by the selection of such progeny the 
breeder is always assured a potato of good quality and yield. 



24 BREEDING 

3rd. Those that are most adapted to peculiarities in 
climatic and soil conditions. 

In cutting seedlings, it is always advisable to cut and 
throw away the blossom end of the potato ; that is, the bud- 
eye cluster. This end, when planted, is more liable to cause 
prongy tubers, although the tubers produced from this end 
are more disease resistant. 

In order to insure a good development during the first 
year or season's planting of the potato seed, it is advisable 
to allow the seedling a long growing period. They require 
from five to nine months, depending on all conditions. It is 
well to plant as early as possible, if planted in the field. 



SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 25 



SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO. 



CHAPTER II. 




N the growing of a profitable crop of potatoes, I 
would say that the first important factor is that 
of good seed. The next of importance is good 
soil. Without both these necessities, a good 
crop of potatoes cannot be produced. Good seed potatoes 
are known by their yield and quality when cared for proper- 
ly. Good seed will produce a fairly good crop in poor soil, 
but poor quality seed in the most fertile soil will not give 
good results. 

The average potato grower is careless in that he allows 
his seed stock to become mixed with other varieties. This 
is decidedly undesirable. These mixtures are generally of 
a poor quality, and the grower should look to discarding 
them, as well as the diseased ones. This demands, or should 
demand, the special study and attention of the grower. 
Study and learn the varieties, and discard the unproductive 
strains! Again I would emphasize the importance of un- 
mixed seed. If a mixture of early and late potatoes were 
planted, the result is, naturally, an uneven germination ; 
and scarcely any of the late tubers are set on when those of 
the early varieties are ready for market. The great loss to 



26 SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 

the grower can be readily seen, and is enough within itself 
to pay for the good seed. 

The majority of potato growers in California and else- 
where use "culls," or inferior seed. Thus doing, they invite 
an unfavorable quality as well as yield. The belief that is 
prevalent throughout the country that the average culti- 
vated potato shows a tendency to degenerate or ''run out" 
is true. It is quite a natural result, caused from lack of 
knowledge or carelessness in the selection of the seed po- 
tatoes. The inferiors are used year after year, and the re- 
sultant crops are very poor. The fact that like produces 
like is essentially true in the potato as well as other plant 
life. If the best of seed were used, planted in good soil and 
handled properly, this tendency of degeneration would soon 
be overcome, and better prices could be demanded for the 
better grade of potatoes. If studied closely and carefully, 
each variety may be found to have unproductive strains. 
These potatoes are generally curly topped. These should 
always be discarded, so that the variety grown be kept to its 
highest standard of development. 

In my experience I have learned that strong plants pro- 
duce many times the number of good tubers than the weak 
plants, and in some cases the poor seed does not produce any 
marketable tubers whatsoever. Therefore, I would say 
that the selection of seed should be conducted with the 
greatest of care. 

Now arises the question, "What is good seed?" Too 
much stress cannot be laid on this ever-important and in- 
teresting subject, the production of good potatoes. 

1st. The tubers used for seed must be strong, vigor- 
ous, and productive. 

2nd. Must be pure and unmixed. 




The best hill of seedlings I ever produced, being eighteen 
smooth potatoes, and not an ounce difference in weight. 



SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 29 

3rd. Should be firm and with the sprouts just showing 
at planting time, as shown on page 33. 

4th. Should have been selected at digging time. This 
is called "Hill Selection." 

5th. Must have been carefully and properly handled. 

6th. The seed should not be too ripe or mature. 

7th. The seed should not show any disease whatever, 
or have any rotten spots. 

8th. The seed must not be too old or too new. 

Potatoes that have been sprouted two or three times 
are not the best for seed. They are too old. Each time 
they are sprouted they become weaker. When they are at 
this age, the sprouts, if there are any, are weak and thread- 
like. If such potatoes are planted, they will not grow, as 
they are too delicate to send out a top. If they do happen 
to grow, there will be small, pea-like tubers form just in or 
outside of the eyes. The seed piece may be firm, but be- 
cause of the age it will not reproduce. The nature of the 
potato is to reproduce, so if it cannot send up a top, the 
small tubers will form in the eyes of the old potato. If 
these old tubers are opened, it will be noted that they are 
hollow or are water-soaked, and the quality very poor. 
Page 37 shows such a potato that had been planted for 
three weeks. 

The newer seed, that with the first sprouts just show- 
ing, comes up more readily and possesses greater vitality 
than older seed. That is one of the serious faults of the 
growers in some districts of California. They use seed that 
is old and has sprouted badly. The sprouts are sometimes 
several inches long before the potatoes are planted, conse- 
quently the potatoes have not the strength left in them to 
make a good crop. Those plants that do come up are weak, 
therefore more subject to disease. In some experiments I 



30 SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 

have tested new potatoes with the sprouts just showing, 
and old ones that had been sprouted in soil infected with 
jelly-end and rot. The tubers from the new seed did not 
show a sign of the disease, while those of the old seed were 
badly infected. The new seed is more liable to be prongy 
or knotty, but this can be overcome by cutting away the 
blossom end. 

Another serious fault of some potato growers is to 
leave culls lying on the ground from year to year. The 
weaker hills are always more liable to disease and always 
produce small tubers. If these small tubers or culls are left 
on the ground, the new crops and the land is bound to be- 
come infected with the disease ; and if this way of handling 
the crop is continued, the disease will increase with great 
rapidity and soon no crop can be raised. 

I have noticed in a volunteer hill of potatoes, where they 
have lain on the ground over winter, that the center eye in 
the bud or blossom end is always the first one to sprout. It 
is this eye that produces the crop resulting in prongy tubers, 
and I maintain that this center eye in the blossom end is the 
eye that finally causes the "running out" of the potato, al- 
though it is the strongest eye and is the first to come up 
when planted. The grower should not, therefore, under 
any circumstance, allow culls to lay on the soil where the 
same crop is to be grown the following year. These culls 
cause the degeneration of the potato, breed diseases and 
tuber moth. If, instead, these culls were used for stock 
feed, either in the raw state or cooked, they would more 
than pay for the trouble, and the following crop would be 
greatly improved. 

I have learned that it is wise to change the soils used 
for potatoes from year to year. If they are planted in peat- 
land one year, the seed produced should be planted in a 



SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 31 

lighter, but not too light, loam the following year. The 
stand and yield is always increased. This is a practice not 
known to most potato growers. 

The year 1916 I had a 98^4 stand, and a yield at the 
rate of four hundred sacks per acre. This land has been in 
potatoes every year for twenty-three years. I attribute 
this to the selection of good seed, planted at the proper time 
and well cared for. The field picture is shown on page 41. 
We would naturally conclude, then, that the value of good 
seed cannot be overestimated. As much cultivation is put 
into a 50% stand as a 98% stand, and almost the same ex- 
penditures would produce a 98% to 99 ^^ crop. The gain in 
the resulting crop from the use of good seed would be sur- 
prising. While the 50% stand would hardly pay expenses, 
with an 80 to S5% stand the grower would realize a good 
net profit. When potatoes are a good price, a great number 
of farmers buy any seed just so it is cheap, plant it, and ex- 
pect a good crop. Instead, the results are poor and a very 
inferior quality of potatoes are produced — thus the loss of 
time and money. They find that they cannot obtain a good 
price for such quality of potatoes, so sell them at a very low 
price to get rid of them. This floods the market with poor 
quality potatoes, consequently the conscientious grower 
will lose indirectly to a certain degree. Then the inexperi- 
enced farmer decides there is nothing in it, so stops growing 
them until the price is high again, when he begins again en- 
thusiastically with the same method of poor seed, and nat- 
urally produces the same results. 

The man who makes a success in potato-growing, as in 
any other business or profession, is the one who has the 
stick-to-it-iveness. He is the one who will get the best of 
seed, no matter what the first cost is, and will always pro- 
duce good potatoes. He will get the best price for them. 



32 SELECTION AND CARE Or THE SEED POTATO 

because such potatoes are very scarce. In fact, it is a hard 
matter to find them. That is the reason I advocate so 
strongly the use of good seed. 

You may ask, "How will we tell good seed ?" By look- 
ing at them it may be ascertained whether or not they are 
sound, firm, or diseased to a certain extent. But whether 
or not the seed will produce a good crop cannot be deter- 
mined. The only way, then, is to try several varieties in 
your particular soil. By hill selection year after year of 
the best (that is, the most productive and of the best quali- 
ty), your potatoes may be brought up to a high standard of 
development. But if the growers cannot take this time to 
learn the best, it is always advisable to buy of some recog- 
nized seed potato grower, or a reliable seed firm. 

I have some potatoes that cannot be surpassed for peat 
land or damp, heavy soil, although when planted in the peat 
land they would not sell for marketable potatoes, as they 
are too large, rough, and deep-eyed. This sam.e potato, 
when planted on other loamy soil, makes the largest yield of 
any I have ever tested. They are of a good size and exceed- 
ingly good for market. It is quite a remarkable fact, the 
diiference in size and shape in a variety of potatoes grown 
in diflferent soils. Those grown on weaker, light soils are 
likely to be more smooth and uniform, as far as looks are 
concerned. When seed quality and vitality are considered, 
the tubers that are grown on the rich soils are far superior, 
though they be rough, deep-eyed, and ill-shaped. This po- 
tato, if changed to a lighter loam, will come out smooth and 
large ; also the yield will be greatly increased. Inheritance 
plays an important part in the size and shape of the tuber, 
yet to a great extent these factors are determined by the 
kind of soil, fertilizer, and care given the crop. 

There is an increasing demand for fancy table stock. 



•^'' '' 





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A good seed potato, in proper condition to plant. 



SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 35 

and if the use of good seed were persisted in, the grower 
would be paid the higher price for the better quality pota- 
toes, and consequently the subject of "Improvement of the 
seed potato" hence "The development of high grade mar- 
ketable tubers" is receiving more attention, than heretofore. 

The successful grower gives his most careful attention 
to the source of his seed supply. He either becom . - an ex- 
pert himself in the growing of the crop or buys of some rec- 
ognized seed potato grower or seed firm. As a result his 
average yields are enormous in comparison to the one who 
is careless in his seed selection. 

The development of the best grade seed potatoes is not 
a perplexing problem ; however, great care, attention, good 
judgment, and correct methods must be persisted in year 
after year. If the grower has not the time to develop his 
own seed into the best grade — seed of the best quality and 
highest productiveness — he must, for several reasons, buy 
his seed from a recognized seed potato grower — one who 
makes a specialty of growing varieties of a pure, strong, 
and vigorous type. It is preferable to buy of one whose 
seed potatoes are grown on rich soil, as this seed is more 
vigorous and will be more disease-resistant. Thus he will 
obtain better results from the seed grown in this soil than 
that grown in lighter soils. Never obtain seed from a seeds- 
m.an whose stock is not free from mixtures with other vari- 
eties. To insure the maintenance of their strength and vi- 
tality the seed must be kept pure. The grower's average 
yield of marketable potatoes should be from two to four hun- 
dred sacks per acre. This insures the buyer the best of 
seed. 

Considerable dependence can be placed upon the appear- 
ance of the tops in hill selection. The vine with one hardy 
stem is always better than two or three weaker ones. When 



36 SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 

once learned, the tops will tell about the yield to expect, the 
size of the tubers, the number, and where they lay can be 
easily determined. When the grower is able to do this, he 
may figure very closely the yield per acre, what proportion 
will be of marketable size, and the proportion of culls. The 
tops of the pocatoes will vary in different soils and varie- 
ties. Some will be different in color and the leaves shaped 
differently. Where the soil is extraordinarily rich, it will 
be ;2oti.' d that the hills with two or three stalks have bet- 
ter marketable potatoes than those with one stalk. Where 
the soil is so rich, in a hiil with just one stalk, the tubers 
will be too large for market. If the soil is weak and light, 
it will be noted that the large top v/ith one sturdy stem pro- 
duces a better size than those with more. 

To those who care to grow their own seed to improve 
them, thus raising their potatoes to a high standard of de- 
velopment, I advise to carefully select them at digging time. 
This is called "hill selection." These potatoes should be 
carefully dug by hand, avoiding cuts and bruises. Each 
man should use tv/o cans, one for select tubers of uniform 
size and shape for seed, the other for marketable tubers. 
Each hill should be dug separately. If in a hiil of potatoes 
one be rough, or in any way defective, this hill should not 
be used for seed. 

The development of the potato to its highest standard 
has proven as interesting to me as the fascinating study of 
the propagation of new varieties. In my hill selection I 
have taken particular care in selecting only hills with an 
average of eleven or more uniform tubers. This eliminates 
all unproductive plants. In continuing this line of work an 
excellent strain of potatoes is always secured. The best 
potato growers always place emphasis upon keeping the po- 
tato true to type. If we want the best we must of necessity 




The results of planting a potato when too oirt 
tato was dug after being in the ground for +' 



SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 39 

plant the best. The best strains always produce the best in 
plant life as well as in animal life. 

To the growers of California, I cannot too strongly em- 
phasize the necessity of pure, vigorous seed. They are 
largely exempt from disease ; and if the soil is infected with 
disease, fertilize and plant to different crops that do not 
breed these diseases until the soil is rid of it. When pota- 
toes are grown again, be careful to select only the best of 
seed, and, with the care of the crop I advocate, the yields 
will be wonderfully increased. 

In handling the crop the tubers should not be moved 
too often ; however, they should not be left in piles on the 
field to sprout and lose their strength. 

Potatoes for seed should always be "greened" when 
using early spring seed for fall planting. Greening is to 
cause them to sprout under certain conditions before plant- 
ing. In other words, they are put into proper shape to grow. 

The seed produced from the April planting for planting 
in April of the following year becomes a little old before the 
time to plant, and it is a difficult problem to stay their 
growth and preserve their strength. They are stored in a 
cool place until the cold weather in the fall appears. Then 
they are put into a dry place before the rainy season comes, 
and when the first sprouts begin to show they are put out to 
green and are left in that condition until planting time. The 
sprouts are generally from one-half to one inch long at this 
time, and are always planted with these sprouts on. The 
sprouts become tough, and are hard to remove. This seed, 
when properly handled, always insures a crop about two 
weeks earlier. 

The importance of greening is twofold : 

1st. If allowed to grow or sprout too readily before 
planting, too much strength is taken from the potato, caus- 



40 SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 

ing it to shrink. Therefore, the plants are stronger, are 
healthier, and more vigorous if greened, and an increase of 
yield is the result. The average increase in yield of green- 
ed over ungreened seed is, in most instances, about twenty- 
five per cent. 

2nd. The tubers, when planted, mature in a much 
shorter period when greened, and can reach the market 
much earlier. Since it takes a shorter period to mature, 
the potatoes do not have as much chance to take in disease 
as when left in the soil longer. Again, if the seed is kept 
in trays and greened, they will keep longer for seed pur- 
poses than if kept in bins, sacks, or piles. 

In greening, the potatoes should be placed not more 
than two or three inches deep, and arranged so that plenty 
of air and light can reach all tubers. They should be kept 
in a cool, dry, shady place. An open barn or shed is gener- 
ally used. Seed potatoes should always be kept in moder- 
ate temperature. Some farmers' ideas of greening their 
seed are very poor. Their idea of greening is by the sun, 
never once thinking that the extreme heat is as injurious 
as frost. The tender potatoes just taken from the soil will 
stand but little heat in the sun. It is essential that they be 
kept in the shade. 

In conclusion of this chapter, "Selection and Care of 
the Seed Potato," I would again emphasize the necessity of 
good seed, for good seed is far cheaper than poor seed. 

1st. Remember that marketable potatoes can be pro- 
duced on poor soil with good seed much more easily than 
poor seed grown on good soil. 

2nd. Good seed may be obtained by a thorough and 
careful "hill selection." 

3rd. All tubers showing any disease or rot should be 
rejected. 



SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 43 

4th. Select pure and unmixed seed. 

5th. Weak seed produces weak plants. 

6th. Greening is essential in most cases. 

7th. In unselected seed stock the greater per cent are 
weak and diseased, therefore unproductive. 

8th. Beware of the dealer who thinks more of the 
price than of the quality of his seed, or one who through 
carelessness and inexperience does not keep his seed un- 
mixed and vigorous. 



CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 45 



CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 

CHAPTER III. 




FTER the seed potatoes have been greened 
(when greening is needed), they are cut, limed 
and allowed plenty time to heal over before 
planting. The potato should be cut, first, 
lengthwise through the bud-eye cluster or blossom end, and 
then crosswise, depending upon the size of potatoes used. 
Each seed piece should weigh not less than two ounces. 
However, the piece at the stem-end should be larger, as 
this end of the potato is weaker and therefore more subject 
to disease than the bud-eye end. It is essential that they be 
of good size, as each seed piece must have strength enough 
to support a sprout, or sprouts (as the case may be), until 
the feed roots are able to support them. The sprouts take 
all the strength from the seed piece until the feed roots are 
long enough, when the little "pumps" on the end of the 
roots start working and drawing up the plant food by ca- 
pillary attraction from the soil. Therefore we would rea- 
sonably conclude the advantage of using a large seed piece. 
If it is not large enough the sprout will be stunted and the 
crop likewise will be lessened. There should be one or more, 
and not over three, good eyes in each piece, and the eye or 



46 CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 

eyes should be as near the center as possible. Do not cut 
too close to the eye. 

Some potato growers, particularly in the Eastern 
states, cut out only the eyes and use them in planting. This 
has been tried and will not do in California. As I have ex- 
plained, the seed piece must of necessity have the strength 
to force the sprout, thus increasing the yield. Those who 
practice using the eye alone for planting would get much 
better results if, instead, they would use a large seed piece. 

Some times when seed potatoes are high and scarce, 
the grower will cut the seed into very small pieces, making 
his seed go farther. It does, it is true, plant a larger area, 
but when the yield is taken into account, he will surely see 
his mistake. This is a common error, and is, indeed, a seri- 
ous one. The grower tries to be economical by cutting his 
seed into small pieces. The lack of results from the use of 
small pieces would more than justify the use of large pieces. 
The fact that the smaller pieces will plant more ground will 
also make the grower more work and will not produce any 
more tubers than the smaller plot of ground and larger 
pieces. Again, the piece is liable to decay before the feed 
roots appear. 

The discussion of the size of seed pieces brings up the 
subject of the quantity of seed to use per acre. This de- 
pends upon the manner in which the seed is planted, the dis- 
tance of the hills and the rows, and the size of the seed 
piece; also if whole or cut. I generally use from six to 
seven hundred pounds per acre in ordinary soil, but in rich 
soil not less than one thousand to fourteen hundred pounds 
per acre. This, however, cannot be definitely stated. More 
seed is used in rich soil because the seed piece must be 
larger and each piece have more sprouts. If there is just 
one sprout the new tubers will be too large. One sprout will 



CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 47 

make one sturdy stem. Such hills are usually found to have 
less but better tubers under it than a hill with several weak 
ones, when planted in ordinary soil. The grower should be 
thoroughly acquainted with his soil, he should know the 
quality of seed, and the condition his soil is in before plant- 
ing. Then he may know about the quantity to use. 

If there are, by chance, any potatoes in your seed stock 
showing decay, cut and throw that part away. The decay 
or disease generally shows in the stem end first. If there 
are any yellow or black streaks, cut that part av/ay, too, as 
it is disease. If the yellow streaks reach through the po- 
tato, it will not do for seed ; but if only part of it is infected, 
that part which is good may be used for seed. Again, you 
may find in your seed stock some potatoes that have been 
sprouted once or twice. These are too old to plant, and 
should be cast aside as inferior. Any disease that is left in 
the seed piece will inoculate the new crop of potatoes. As 
the strength goes out of the old potatoes into the sprouts 
and thence into the new tubers, so will the disease. 

The grower should cut and lime the potatoes to be used 
for seed several days before planting. If the seed is new 
and not sprouting, it should be cut and limed from eight to 
ten days before planting. If the seed is a little old, it should 
be cut about five days before planting, to keep it from losing 
its strength. Seed when cut and limed always proves to 
produce much more than when unlimed. The use of lime 
on seed potatoes serves well several purposes: 

1st. It prevents, to a certain extent, bugs and worms 
eating the potato. 

2nd. Lime within itself is a fertilizer. 

3rd. The seed that is limed is less liable to disease, as 
it prevents disease germs entering the tubers. Disease 
germs never enter the potato unless the skin is broken or 



48 CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 

cut without being healed over with lime. Therefore, if 
well covered with lime, the potato will be protected from 
disease germs to a certain degree. 

4th, Lime acts as a preservative. The seed pieces will 
keep longer when planted with lime than without it. 

5th. When cut potatoes are limed, a thick covering or 
new skin is made on the cut surface, and is stronger than 
the old skin. This keeps the seed from losing its strength. 

6th. The expense is very small and no time is wasted. 

Many growers believe that lime is a detriment to the 
growing of potatoes, but I am decidedly in favor of its use. 

I have tested growing potatoes with and without liming 
when there are hard, black streaks reaching through the 
potato, this being the first stage of decay. I have taken ten 
potatoes, cut each into four equal parts, and planted without 
lime, and ten with lime. Out of the ten tested without lime, 
three came up before the pieces decayed, and the other seven 
decayed away before the sprouts came through. Out of the 
ten tested with lime, eight came up and looked a great deal 
hardier than the three without lime. This, I think, should 
prove the value of lime in the growing of a profitable crop of 
potatoes. 

It is always advisable to procure the lime to be used sev- 
eral days or weeks before cutting and planting time, and air 
slake it. Since the starch in the potatoes absorb the lime, 
the cut tubers will be burned if the lime is too new ; that is, 
if not well air slaked. 

In slaking the lime, I always spread it out in thin layers 
so it will be exposed to the air. Several weeks' time is need- 
ed to slake it well before using. However, the time depends 
greatly upon the weather conditions. The test in determin- 
ing whether or not it is well air slaked is to pour a little 



CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 49 

water upon a small quantity of the lime. If there is any 
heat whatever, the lime is not well slaked. 

Most potato growers, in the handling of their crops, use 
kerosene oil cans. The tops are taken out, the edges ham- 
mered down so the potatoes will not be cut or bruised, and a 
handle is easily fitted in at the top. These make a very 
handy can in the handling of potatoes. I use them alto- 
gether. 

In cutting the seed potatoes, have ready a pan of air 
slaked lime, and a paddle that will hold about two or three 
tablespoons of lime. Cut about one-half of a can of potatoes 
and then sprinkle a paddle of lime over them, shaking the 
can at the same time. This distributes the lime well over 
the seed. That which does not stick to the potatoes will 
drop to the bottom of the can. When the can is full, 
sprinkle another paddle of lime and shake as before. When 
the cans of cut seed are emptied into the sacks, the lime that 
has fallen to the bottom of the cans will reach all sides of 
the seed. 

After the seed has been cut and limed, they are put into 
sacks partially full. The sacks should not be piled or the 
cut seed bruised in any way. Let them stand with an air 
space between the sacks of about three or four inches, so 
that fresh air might circulate around and through them. 
Always keep them in a cool, shady place. 

When seed potatoes have been harvested in September 
and October, and are to be planted in December or January 
or February, the seed must be cut two weeks before plant- 
ing. If, however, this same seed is not planted until March, 
they should not be cut over two or three days before plant- 
ing. Such seed would be considered old. They do not have 
the vitality at that time and would lose considerable strength 
if kept longer. When the seed that has been harvested in 



50 CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 

November or December is planted in March or April, it 
should be cut about two weeks before planting. For good 
seed for the July planting, the seed to be used should have 
been harvested by the first of May, placed upon shallow 
trays and greened. Potatoes at all times should be kept in 
a cool, shady place. In my experience with the July and 
August planting I have learned that potatoes cut and limed 
from three to four weeks before planting come up more 
evenly. 

Every grower should know his own soil. When plant- 
ing in soil that is extraordinarily rich, the seed pieces should 
have more sprouts than when planted in lighter soil. But 
in soil that is not overly rich, the seed pieces should have 
but one sprout. In other words, the plant food which is 
lacking in the soil is made up in the strength of the seed 
piece, or visa versa. One sprout from a seed piece will pro- 
duce as much in weight as three or four sprouts in the same 
soil and under the same conditions. However, the hills 
with more sprouts produce more in number, but the tubers 
are smaller than those produced from one sprout. For in- 
stance, if one potato when planted in rather light soil pro- 
duces three sprouts, the tubers produced would be small, 
but if planted in rich soil the tubers would be a good 
size. But if in the same soil a potato is planted which has 
but one sprout, the tubers produced would be large, and 
if planted in rich soil the tubers produced Vv'ould be too large. 
The fact that each hill has a certain number of square inch- 
es to draw its plant food from, makes it clear that the more 
tubers in each hill the less weight in each tuber there will 
be. The one tuber produced will weigh as much as the three 
smaller ones if planted in the same soil. In using new seed 
to plant, when the first sprouts are just showing, with a 
good-sized seed piece and planted in ordinary soil, just one 



CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 51 

sprout will be produced. In such new seed generally just 
one sprout appears ; but if aged, and under certain climatical 
conditions, all eyes will sprout, and two or three stalks may 
grow from each eye. 

There are several reasons why whole seed is not used 
extensively in California: 1st. Because the small whole 
tubers used are generally "culls ;" consequently an inferior 
crop is produced. Large pieces cut from large potatoes 
yield more. 2nd. The cost is greater, and more seed pota- 
toes are required, and does not increase the yield sufficiently 
to justify its use, unless the soil is extraordinarily rich. 
However, if whole tubers are grown especially for seed pur- 
poses, planted closely so they do not become too large, they 
are satisfactory, and are much better than the small tubers 
taken from the field. 

In European countries, whole seed, greened and sprout- 
ed, is used extensively, and such seed makes a crop from two 
to three weeks earlier. 

Cut seed potatoes are generally advisable in California, 
although whole seed is advisable at times. Its use is grow- 
ing more popular than heretofore. 

The soil must be extraordinarily rich, or the seed new, 
so that just one or two sprouts are produced. Whole seed 
must never be too old. If the seed is too old, too many 
sprouts will come from one hill, making the tubers unmarket- 
able. Whole tubers must always be very new to produce one 
sprout in light soil. 

The use of small whole tubers from the field is not ad- 
visable, because it is generally the diseased plants that pro- 
duce small tubers, and a very unsatisfactory yield and qual- 
ity would result. However, when whole tubers are used, 
they should be from seed that had been planted closely es- 



52 CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 

pecially for seed purposes, and the tubers dug while imma- 
ture. 

In conclusion of this chapter on "Cutting and Preparing 
Seed to Plant," I would impress on the grower's mind these 
facts : 

1st. Always use good-sized seed pieces in planting. 
The stand and yield of the resultant crop from the use of 
such pieces will be very favorable. 

2nd. Always lime with well air slaked lime, when cut- 
ting. Through the use of lime the crop will be less liable to 
disease. Lime is a fertilizer, acts as a preservative, and 
will partially protect the seed from being eaten by insects. 

3rd. Always keep the seed in a cool, dry place. 

4th. It is well to cut the seed pieces at the stem end 
of the potato larger than the other pieces. The strongest 
eyes are on the blossom end and each eye nearer the stem 
is weaker. 




A cutting ready for planting. The use of cuttings is 
not profitable, unless the grower has only a few hills 
and wishes to increase the amount of tubers for the 
following crop, as four crcps can be grown in one year. 
The line shows the depth to plant. 



PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 



55 



PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING. 



CHAPTER IV. 




T is of the utmost importance in the growing of a 
profitable crop of potatoes to cultivate deeply as 
well as thoroughly. The soil should be well fertil- 
ized with both the dry manure and a green crop, 
if lacking in humus. This green crop or mulch should be 
sown, preferably, in the fall of the year preceding the 
planting. By so doing the green crop will have reached the 
desired height by the time of the early spring planting. As 
soon as this crop is ready, plow under and prepare the soil 
thoroughly by the use of a harrow, if the soil has a tendency 
to bake or crust. This working will make the soil fine, mel- 
low, and moist, an ideal condition for a crop of potatoes. In 
any soil it is well to plow the ground quite deeply, but do 
not turn up too much subsoil at one time. It is well not to 
plow more than two inches deeper than was plowed the year 
preceding, thus deepening the soil gradually until the de- 
sired depth has been attained. From seven to nine inches 
is a good depth to plow for potatoes. 



56 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 

The fertilizers used for the production of potatoes are 
dry barnyard manure, green manures, and commercial fer- 
tilizers. I have tested out several commercial fertilizers 
but without good results. However, the best fertilizers, 
those containing about 3 or 4% of nitrogen, 6 to 8% of 
phosphoric acid, and 8 or 10% of potash, give good results — 
one thousand pounds or more being used if spread broad- 
cast, but if drilled along the rows, less than that amount is 
used. It should be mixed with the soil to prevent it coming 
in contact with the seed. The best fertilizers for the pro- 
duction of good potatoes is barnyard manure, followed by a 
green crop. This should be spread broadcast over the field. 
It should be put out in the fall and plowed under just before 
the sowing of a green crop. The best green manure or mulch 
is Texas red oats and vetch combined. This makes a heavy 
crop to turn under before or while plowing for the spring 
crop. It is a wise policy to combine the green with the dry 
manure, as the dry fertilizer used alone breeds scab — par- 
ticularly if in close contact with the tubers. 

This is a fact not known to most potato growers. The 
green crop during its decomposition forms an acid, counter- 
acting the effects of the dry manure. 

Nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash are the three es- 
sential plant foods in all soils, and are the most liable to be 
deficient after several croppings. These are the three plant 
foods needed in fertilizers. The dry manure contains a 
good per cent of these, and with the combination of this fer- 
tilizer and the green crop, practically all the plant foods are 
obtained. Clover is a good cover crop, as it takes the ni- 
trogen from the air and thence to the soil. It contains more 
nitrogen than other legumes. 

The "pumps" on the feed roots cannot absorb any plant 
food unless it is in liquid form. This is the reason that the 



PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 57 



soil should be loose and fine. The plant foods are decom- 
posed by the action of the light, sun, and air, and are, there- 
fore, made soluble. Such fertilizers add the required hu- 
mus to the soil. All legume crops, such as burr clover, 
vetch, Texas red oats, and Melilotus Indica — in fact, any 
legume crops — are good, providing they make a heavy crop. 

The soil best adapted to the cultivation of potatoes is 
an extraordinarily rich soil. These soils are generally dark, 
being a mass of decayed vegetation. However, any soil 
that is rich and mellow, regardless of color, will yield an 
abundance of good potatoes, providing all other conditions 
are favorable, including climatic conditions. There are, and 
always will be, some regions peculiarly adapted to the cul- 
ture of the potato. We would say, then, that good soil for 
potatoes must contain a large proportion of humus, and it 
is well that this humus be well decomposed at planting time, 
making the soil fine, loose, and without preventing a free 
circulation of air. 

Most potato growers prefer a light, sandy, loam soil. 
The crop and the quality of the potato is generally poor if 
planted in an extremely light or a heavy clay soil. The po- 
tatoes grown on a mellow soil will be smooth, while those 
grown on the heavy clay soils will be ill-shaped. But if 
your soil has already been chosen for your potato crop, and 
is a heavy, retentive soil, it is better to select some variety 
of potatoes that are almost round, and you will note the 
shape of the tubers produced will be much better than those 
of the longer variety. Another remedy for the poorer and 
heavier soils is, as I have stated, the use of dry and green 
manures each year, if possible. By doing this, there will 
be more plant food and humus put into the soil each year 
than is taken out, increasing the value and improving the 



58 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 

texture of the soil, as well as the yield and quality of the po- 
tatoes. 

It is not advisable to plant potatoes in soil ever contain- 
ing any amount of alkali. It is not a soil suited to the 
growth of potatoes. Potatoes grown in this soil are general- 
ly scabby. If the soil is irrigated during the growing per- 
iod, the alkali appears on the surface of the ground, comes 
in contact with the tubers, bites them and causes scab. 
Land that is deficient in fertility or humus should not be 
used for the growing of potatoes. 

Before the planting of a crop of potatoes, the land 
should be prepared well. Much of the future success of the 
crop is dependent upon this condition. The potatoes germi- 
nate more rapidly, through the circulation of air, are not 
likely to decay, and the greater ease of culture of the crop 
is apparent. 

If the soil is dry, irrigate well before starting to pre- 
pare it for planting. By digging well into the subsoil, the 
moisture conditions can be determined ; and if there is a 
shortage, give the land a thorough soaking. The upper 
moisture should penetrate to the deep subsoil moisture. 
When the surface is dry enough to work without sticking, 
plow the ground thoroughly and harrow as fast as a small 
area is plowed, to prevent the loss of moisture. The soil 
should be harrowed and re-harrowed until it is fine, moist 
and mellow. This working kills all the small weeds, and at 
the same time puts the soil into excellent condition for 
planting. 

If it has not been convenient to prepare the soil so well 
before planting, it is advisable to plow under the green crop 
and plant at the same time. If planting in dry soil (where 
it has been impossible to irrigate) in the late fall or winter, 
from November to the middle of December, the grower gen- 



PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 59 

erally depends upon the first rain to start his crop growing, 
and he waits till then to work his soil. The potatoes are 
dropped in the ground while dry, and when the rain comes 
the surface of the soil is worked before the potatoes are up. 
This soil must be of a mellow texture. The time for plant- 
ing this crop is from November to the middle of December. 

When planting in wet soil — that is, soil that is never 
dry, such as the peat land — always plow and work it thor- 
oughly a month or so before planting. If the soil is very 
wet at planting time, open up furrows with a large cultivat- 
or plow, wing shovel plow — in fact, any that will serve the 
purpose of throwing the dirt both ways, leaving the furrow 
from five to seven inches deep. If the soil is wet and cold, 
these furrows should be left two or three days to dry before 
planting. When the potatoes are planted, cover lightly, not 
over two inches deep at first. After two weeks, harrow 
crosswise. This finishes covering them and levels the soil. 
When covering lightly the first time, use a harrow running 
lengthwise, keeping the horses on the ridge so they will not 
trample on the potatoes. In planting in March and April, 
be careful that the potatoes are deep enough to be out of the 
way of the tuber moth. 

In deeper planting, of about four to six inches, do not 
cover up the pieces completely, if planted in cold weather; 
but if planted in the warm season, cover completely. The 
deeper planting is used in the lighter soils, and shallower 
planting of about three to four inches in the heavy and re- 
tentive soils. In early winter in Southern California, dur- 
ing the months of November, December, January, and as 
late as the middle of February, the seed is planted shallower, 
as the ground is too cold and moist. They are planted about 
three or four inches deep at this time. Deep planting is 
generally considered the best, except in winter. If the tu- 



60 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 

ber moth is troublesome, it is necessary to plant deeply. 
The tuber moth makes its appearance more often in soil 
that has not been worked finely than in the mellow soil. In 
deep planting, if possible, plant from four to six inches, 
partly cover, and leave two weeks, then finish covering with 
a harrow running lengthwise, and with the teeth straight. 

If planting while plowing during winter months of No- 
vember to February, it is best to leave the soil as it has fall- 
en after plowing, for two weeks. Then harrow crosswise 
at a depth of about two or three inches, working the 
soil surface thoroughly. After four or five days it should 
be harrowed again, this time lengthwise of the rows. The 
last time it should be harrowed crosswise, this being just 
before the plants are up. 

If the soil is fouled with weeds, or a shower of rain 
comes before the plants are up, the soil is liable to crust; 
and as soon as the rows can be seen it is well to harrow 
lengthwise, being careful to keep the horses in the middle 
of the rows. The harrowing will not injure the tops, and 
is the first and best cultivation the plants ever get. The 
harrowing stirs the surface of the soil and leaves it free 
from weeds, and the soil in excellent condition. The harrow 
is best for this cultivation, as any other implement, such as 
the cultivator, leaves a strip of uncultivated soil between 
the hills. 

In planting from the months of March to August, in 
any soil, the potatoes should be planted from four to six 
inches deep. However, if the soil is wet, partly cover at 
first, and in about two weeks harrow crosswise. If the soil 
is dry and is to be irrigated, they should be covered com- 
pletely and harrowed thoroughly to hold the moisture. 

The medium and main crop is planted in March and 
April, and in some parts of California as late as the tenth of 



PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 61 

May. Potatoes planted in July and August are considered 
a late planting. 

The best season for planting potatoes in ordinary soils, 
where it is not extraordinarily dry or wet, is from the first 
to the fifteenth of February, for a heavy yield. For the best 
price, the time to plant is in December or January. The 
yields at this time are not so great, and some seasons the 
crops are apt to be frost-bitten. However, if the grower 
wishes to take the risk in the early planting, he will receive 
in pay good prices and a quick sale. 

The best season for planting low, wet land, which is 
more or less subject to frost, is from the twentieth of March 
to the fifth of April. In higher altitude frost appears later 
and earlier than in the low altitude. The grower should 
know when to expect frost. In some places potatoes cannot 
be planted until the first of May. At this planting, if the 
seed is taken from a lower altitude, the grower should se- 
lect his seed from potatoes planted in July or August of the 
previous year, and dug in December. This seed should be 
moved to the higher altitude as soon as dug, where they are 
to be planted by the first of May or later. The seed will 
keep in a cold climate, but if the same seed were kept in a 
lower climate the same length of time, it would be too old to 
plant. The reason for this is that the cold retards the 
growth of the potato and they stay dormant until the warm- 
er weather arrives. 

Another point not known to potato growers is that the 
changing of soils from year to year keeps it to its highest 
standard of quality and productiveness. Potatoes grown 
on a low, wet soil, such as the peat land, should be planted 
on a higher, drier soil the succeeding year. 

In the growing of potatoes it is customary to plant so 
as to admit of cultivation in one direction only, the rows be- 



92 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 

ing spaced from thirty to thirty-six inches, depending upon 
the kind of soil, if dry or moist, whether the varieties grown 
are early or late, if they have naturally large tops and are 
heavy yielders or small. 

In dry soil the rows should be about thirty-six inches 
apart, so that ditches or furrows for irrigation, in the center 
of the rows, may be deep enough to run water without flood- 
ing the tops. If the tuber moth is troublesome, the rows 
should be farther apart to admit of better cultivation. The 
varieties with large tops need wider spacing than the small- 
er-topped varieties. 

Tubers of early or small yielding varieties may be plant- 
ed closer than those of the large yielding varieties, also 
when planting in rich soil. There is not much gained by 
planting too close together, at any time. The yield and size 
of the tubers are greatly decreased. The early varieties 
of potatoes do not yield as much as the late potatoes, as they 
mature much more rapidly. 

The seed potatoes are dropped from fourteen to seven- 
teen inches in the hills, always planting one seed piece to the 
hill. Some growers advocate the use of two pieces to the 
hill, but if the seed is good, one piece is much better. The 
hills are generally spaced farther apart when the rows are 
closer. 

A grower who will give it a little thought, will soon 
learn the variety of potatoes to use in his soil, and the best 
spacing for them, the fertility of the soil and the size of the 
tubers desired to be taken into consideration. 

Seed potatoes must not be planted too soon after they 
are dug. It is essential that they have a certain amount of 
time to lay dormant and rest. The time required is general- 
ly from two to three months. In the interior or where the 
climate is warm, less time is required than along the coast. 



PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 68 

However, the seed should be six weeks old before it is plant- 
ed. Seed for the July and August planting should have 
been planted in December and January to be of the proper 
age. For good seed to plant in December and January, the 
potatoes should have been planted in the latter part of March 
or the first of April. To plant in March and the first of 
April, the seed potatoes should have been planted the year 
preceding. Potatoes may be forced to grow sooner, but by 
forcing the growth the yield will be less than when they 
have a longer rest period. They must have time to change 
from starch to sugar. It is this chemical change that takes 
place before the potato begins to grow. The bud-eye por- 
tion of the potato develops a sprout sooner than the stem 
end, as this change takes place more readily. The bud-eye 
cluster or the blossom end of a potato develops quickly and 
has more vitality, but the tubers produced from that end 
are generally rough and are- varied in size. The stem end 
will produce more uniform potatoes. However, if a tuber is 
diseased, this is the first to be affected. If an early crop of 
potatoes is desired, the bud-end pieces may be used, as they 
grow more rapidly. I have experimented by planting 
pieces cut from the stem and blossom ends separately. I 
find that those planted from the stem end become more uni- 
form in size and shape from successive plantings.The longer 
this practice is continued the more uniform these potatoes 
become. The longer the bud-eye is planted the rougher the 
tubers produced become. It is the center eye of this end 
that finally causes the "running out" of the potato, and in 
growing is the first eye to show, and is the first eye to grow 
when planted. 

In the planting of seed potatoes, I would advise the 
grower to avoid all planters that will bruise or cut them, as 



64 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 

such seed when planted is liable to decay. Since it loses its 
vitality, disease germs are free to enter. 

In conclusion of this chapter, I would emphasize the 
following : 

1st. Good seed. 

2nd. Cultivate deeply as well as thoroughly. 

3rd. By the use of fertilizers humus is added to the 
soil. 

4th. The soil should be prepared well before planting. 

5th. It is a wise policy to change soils from year to 
year. 

6th. Do not plant too close together. This is a com- 
mon error. 




This illustration shows how to plant to reproduce on top 
of the vine. This also isn't practical, unless the grower 
wishes a number of tubers to plant the following year. 
The line shows the depth the top should be planted. 



CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION 67 



CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION. 



CHAPTER V. 




RACTICALLY all the cultivation of a potato crop 
is done before they are up, although the growing 
plants need a great amount of thorough cultiva- 
tion. Cultivation is not only for the purpose of 
loosening the soil, therefore conserving the moisture, but 
for the killing of weeds and germs as well, and allowing the 
sun, heat, and air to penetrate the soil, thus causing the de- 
composition of the fertilizers and allowing the tubers the 
ideal conditions they require during formation. The thorough 
cultivations warm the soil and cause a deeper root system. 
Therefore cultivation increases producing power, by retain- 
ing the moisture, making the plant food available, allowing a 
circulation of air to pass about the foiTning tubers, and kill- 
ing the weeds, thus allowing the plant food that would be 
uselessly wasted to go toward making a better crop. 

Level cultivation generally proves more satisfactory — 
that is, where the climate and soil conditions are favorable. 
However, where irrigation must be practiced, the hill cul- 
ture or ridge system is used. Level cultivation is practiced 
where the soil is of a naturally moist nature, or in soils where 



68 CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION 

the grower depends upon the rains to produce his crop. 
When hills are thrown up there is a greater amount of sur- 
face soil exposed to the sun, and, consequently, the evapora- 
tion of the moisture is greater. 

The first cultivation after the plants are up and the 
rows can first be distinguished is with the harrow, running 
lengthwise of the rows, being careful that the horses are 
kept in the middle, so they will not trample on the plants. 
This harrowing will not injure the tops and is the best culti- 
vation the plants ever get. 

After the first cultivation with the harrow, when the 
plants are up two or three inches, the cultivator is used. 
On a small farm, Vv^here one-horse cultivation is practiced, 
such an implement as the five-tooth cultivator best serves 
the purpose. It will keep the surface of the soil fine and 
mellow. It is wise to use the small sized teeth at Tirst, so 
too much dirt will not be thrown against the tops. However, 
cultivate quite deeply. Always cultivate as closely to the 
rows as possible without injuring or covering them with 
dirt. After the first cultivation it is well each time to culti- 
vate farther from the plants than the preceding cultiva- 
tion, as the tubers are forming, and when the feed roots are 
broken a certain per cent of vitality is taken from the grow- 
ing plant. 

After irrigation, or after a rain, when the soil becomes 
dry enough not to stick, it should be thoroughly cultivated, 
and particularly v/ell if the soil is inclined to bake or crust. 
If the soil is fouled well with weeds or weed seed, the more 
frequent and thorough the cultivations the less hand work 
is needed. It is impossible to state definitely the number of 
cultivations needed in the growth of a crop of potatoes. The 
climatic conditions, the character of the soil, and the amount 
of weeds determine the frequency of cultivations needed. It 



CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION 69 

is well to use the cultivator as much as possible, as the hoe 
cuts and bruises more small tubers than the cultivator, if 
handled properly. When the soil has a great amount of 
weeds, the field may be harrowed just before and after the 
plants are up, and cultivated well; then the weeds may be 
kept in check without a great amount of hand labor. 

Some potato growers believe that a small amount of 
cultivation after the plants are up is all that is necessary, 
but I have learned that the more frequent the cultivations, 
without destroying the vines, the better. When the tops 
have grov/n too large to cultivate without tearing them it is 
best to discontinue this kind of cultivation. However, if the 
weeds still persist, then the hoe may be used. The weeds 
should have been destroyed before this time, as they use up 
the moisture and plant food rapidly. 

Potatoes, when irrigated, do not have the good quality 
as when grown in a naturally moist soil, although the larger 
acreage devoted to potato culture in California is irrigated. 
When it is necessary to irrigate, those irrigated by capillary 
attraction are of much better quality than those that are 
soaked or flooded. 

In the warm climates, where irrigation is necessary be- 
fore the plants are up, a deep furrow should be made in the 
center of the rows to run the water in so that the moisture 
may be drawn up by capillary attraction, making the hills 
in a comparatively loose open ridge. The furrows in the 
center of the rows insure even cultivation. In such warm 
climates the soil should be irrigated very lightly just after 
planting, as the moisture in the soil may have evaporated to 
a certain extent during cultivation. After this light irriga- 
tion, when the soil is dry enough not to stick, cultivate well 
and near the hills. This kills the weeds that may have start- 
ed by irrigating. Each cultivation after the first should be 



70 CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION 



farther away from the rows and towards the center — a har- 
row-tooth cultivator or one that will serve the purpose of 
mellowing the soil. If it is necessary to irrigate more than 
once, deepen the center furrow again and cultivate after the 
irrigation. When using the harrow-tooth cultivator it is 
well to narrow it so it will not tear down the loose soil that 
has been thrown up against the potatoes. It should be just 
wide enough to stir the wet soil in the center of the rows. 

Never allow the soil to become too dry. It should be in 
a mellow, fine and moist state always, but not wet. When 
the soil becomes too dry, after the tubers are a certain size, 
and is then irrigated, a new growth starts, and the result is 
knotty tubers, and they are of a poor quality. Never allow 
the water to soak around the potatoes, but allow the mois- 
ture to be drawn up by capillary attraction. The best way 
to determine the need of irrigation is to dig in the subsoil 
beside the large vine, one that is forming tubers, as they use 
up the moisture more readily than the smaller vines. If the 
soil around the hills becomes too wet the leaves turn pale, 
and when too dry, they become a bright, dark green shade. 

When the tubers have begun to ripen they should be 
allowed to mature in comparatively dry soil, so the skin may 
toughen before digging. 

In planting where hill culture is practiced, it is a wise 
plan to grade the land. If graded to a gradual slope, when 
irrigated or when rain comes the water will not stand in any 
one place. If it stands in one place long it causes the soil to 
become water soaked and soggy. When such poor condi- 
tions exist the result will be very unsatisfactory, generally 
making the tubers scabby and of a poor quality. On the 
other hand, if the slope is too great, the water will make 
deep ditches or washes, causing the grower severe losses. 



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CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION 73 

On moist soil, such as peat land, where level cultivation 
is practiced, the best method of planting is to make deep 
furrows, then, after planting, the soil is harrowed length- 
wise, covering the pieces lightly. After two weeks it is 
harrowed again, this time covering them more, but not com- 
pletely filling the furrows. Afterward, in the first cultiva- 
tion, the loose soil is rolled up to the rows, making the soil 
level, then a small harrow-tooth cultivator is used, one that 
will keep the surface level. This is called level cultivation, 
and is practiced on soils containing natural moisture. 

In conclusion of this chapter on "Cultivation and Irri- 
gation," I would emphasize these points : 

1st. Always cultivate thoroughly. 

2nd. Allow the potatoes to mature in practically dry 
soil. 

3rd. Never allow the soil to become too wet. Potatoes 
grown in such soil are of a poor quality, more liable to 
disease, and the yield is less. 

4th. The number of irrigations depends upon the cli- 
matic and soil conditions. One may be sufficient, but in 
some instances five or six, or even more, may be needed. 

5th. Cultivate the soil well before planting and less 
will be needed after planting. 

6th. Never allow the potatoes to become too dry. If 
irrigated after they become too dry a new growth starts and 
prongy tubers are the natural results. 



DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION 75 



DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION. 



CHAPTER VI. 




HE various diseases, such as scab, blight, jelly-end 
rot, wilt and rhizoctonia, which are more preva- 
lent in the northern districts of California than 
the southern part, could be almost eliminated if 
the careful system of seed selection, such as I have recom- 
mended, was followed. Very fortunately for the potato 
growers, more attention is being given to the selection of 
vigorous seed. 

When good and pure seed has been selected, the grower 
should now turn his attention to these disease germs. The 
best method is to plant a legumus crop of Melolotus Indica, 
or Red Oats, or most any good green crop that will grow 
rapidly and vigorously. When this is turned under the acid 
formed will play havoc with the disease germs. 

After careful cultivation and planting, when the po- 
tatoes have grown to about two or four inches high, it is 
wise to spray with the Bordeaux mixture. I recommend 
spraying at this time rather than later, as this spray is a 
preventative of disease, rather than a cure, and the sooner 
the plants are sprayed the better. If the disease is in the 



76 DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION 

seed piece or soil, it will make its appearance sooner or later, 
and, if the disease is to be prevented, it should be taken in 
time. 

Some growers advise first spraying the plants when a 
certain age. Would it be wise if smallpox, or any dreaded 
disease, prevailed in a family, and some had been exposed 
to it, to wait until the child was a certain age to vaccinate ? 
No, this should be done early, in order to prevent it. This 
same precaution should be considered in the growing of a 

crop of potatoes. 

After the first spraying, the plants should be sprayed 
about every two weeks during their growing season. How- 
ever, the crop should be sprayed just after a shower of rain, 
as it is such conditions as rain followed by sunshine that 
causes blight. These spores increase so rapidly that the 
whole field might be blighted down in two or three days if 
the sun shines warmly. Therefore, I would say that the 
whole idea of spraying is to protect the vine when the dis- 
ease appears. 

If Paris green is added to the Bordeaux, the mixture 
will adhere to the leaves, and, as it is a poison, no insects can 
eat of it unless they are poisoned. Since it is a poison, it 
should be handled carefully and kept away from children or 
stock. 

Not only is the use of this mixture advisable for in- 
sects and disease, but for the increased vigor of the plant 
from its use. All sprayed plants are larger and darker green, 
live longer, are hardier, and produce a better crop. I should 
advise to always use at the rate of one-half pound of Paris 
green to each fifty gallons of Bordeaux mixture. 

It is well to use a high pressure spray with fine nozzle, 
so that all sides of the leaves are thoroughly coated. If the 




This illustration shows a potato affected with the Wilt. 



DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION 79 

vines are not sprayed thoroughly the insects may gain foot- 
hold and a portion of the crop be destroyed. 

In preparing the Bordeaux mixture, if a small amount 
is to be made, have ready two half-barrel tubs, one for the 
copper-sulphate solution, and the other for the lime solu- 
tion. In one tub place five pounds of lime and slake with 
sufficient water to thoroughly break up the lime without 
allowing it to burn. After it has been thoroughly slaked, 
add enough water to make five gallons of this solution. In 
the other tub, put five gallons of water and suspend five 
pounds of copper-sulphate in a gunny sack, so that two- 
thirds of the copper-sulphate is in water and the other part 
in air, as it requires air and water to dissolve. This should 
be dissolved in about twelve hours. These are called the 
stock solutions and will keep for some time if kept in a cool 
place, but when they are mixed the spray should be used im- 
mediately. When ready to spray, mix and pour enough wa- 
ter into it to make fifty gallons in all. When strained and 
mixed thoroughly it is ready for use. The solutions should 
always be kept thoroughly stirred. 

The spray treatment is generally used for the blight, 
yet when the Paris green is added it is equally effective for 
the small insects, such as the black flea beetle and the 
Empoasca Mali, a little green hopper. If blight and insect 
pests are eliminated there will be less of the other diseases 
because of the consequent healthy condition of the plants. 

When potatoes are blighted the larger portion of the 
tubers are subject to a rot called *' Jelly-End," and some- 
times, when dug early, before it appears, they are generally 
subject to "Dry Rot." As the blight is in the seed piece and 
soil, it is wise to select good seed and spray to prevent the 
appearance of the blight. Few people know or can appre- 
ciate the injury done by the little black flea beetle. They at- 



80 DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION 

tack and live on the leaves of the plant, and the damage they 
do to the living plant is immense. They eat small holes into 
the leaves, and, as the leaves are the "lungs" of the plant, it 
is easily understood why these pests are so injurious to a 
crop. These beetles are generally found on the under side of 
the leaf. 

The Empoasca Mali, a small, green hopper, feeds on the 
under side of the leaf and seems to suck the very life from 
the plant. As they increase very rapidly, a large amount of 
vitality is taken from the vine before they are noticed, and, 
indeed, many crops are destroyed by them. 

Scab is a very common disease of the potato, but is not 
so serious as generally supposed. There are several causes 
for the scab: 1st. Alkali in the soil. 2nd. Too much dry 
manure. 3rd. Poorly drained soil, as the alkali of the soil 
when too damp will appear on the surface. The best remedy 
for this disease is the use of the green fertilizer, the acid 
from which counteracts the effect of the dry manure. When 
this is persistently carried out. I find that there is no need of 
"dipping" for scab. However, if it seems best, the grower 
may soak the seed in a solution of corrosive-sublimate for 
one and one-half hours, made at the rate of one ounce of 
powdered corrosive-sublimate to eight gallons of water. As 
this is a poison, it should be handled with care. It is a 
stronger poison than the formaldehyde solution, therefore, 
serves the purpose better. Since this disease stays in the 
soil, it is best to treat it by the use of green fertilizer. Even 
if very little disease exists, it is always wise to combine the 
dry and green fertilizer, and the grower will unusually be 
successful. 

Wilt is a disease which works in the vine and cannot be 
reached by spraying. As this disease goes from the stem 
into the tuber, it is well to harvest before maturity. This 



DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION 81 

disease causes the vine to wilt, and often leaves the tubers 
about half the size they should be, and these diseased tubers 
decay quickly. 

When the plants are infected with wilt or blight, there 
is always a shortage of starch, causing them to decay quick- 
ly. If this does not happen, the food value will be greatly 
decreased. When the tuber is first formed it consists chief- 
ly of water, and as it grows the starch is formed. Changing 
the seed from one soil to another from year to year not only 
increases the yield, by making the seed more free of disease, 
but by increasing the starch content. As the feed roots give 
nourishment to the vine, when the vine is affected by these 
diseases, the food supply is cut off from the tuber, and, in- 
stead of plant food, the disease in the stem is taken into the 
tuber. 

The hills of potatoes with wilt always have small tubers, 
and, if these small tubers of a field are not eliminated, they 
will be used as seed, and, consequently, the wilt will appear 
the following season. The wilt is always introduced into a 
clean field by a diseased tuber. The only way known to con- 
trol this disease is to eliminate the diseased tubers from 
the stock. 

The tuber moth is a small moth or fly and generally ap- 
pears in the tubers that are dug and left in a pile. They are 
seldom seen in the peat land, but do appear at times. They 
can gain a better foothold on the drier, cloddy soils. In early 
plantings, I always dig and market before the potatoes are 
mature, before the tuber moth appears. They seldom bother 
a fall crop, planted in July or August, unless the soil is clod- 
dy, which, of course, is an unfavorable condition for the soil 
to be in for potatoes. The potatoes that are dug before fully 
matured are less liable to disease, as they have less time to 
grow, and the disease does not have the time to go into the 



82 DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION 

tubers. When the tubers are cut, the disease germs may 
enter easily. 

Gophers are another pest to the potato grower. They 
will do a great amount of damage in one night, by cutting 
the vines. If the vines grow again the tubers that appear 
will be prongy, and sometimes will cause small tubers to 
grow on the vine, between the leaf and the stalk. 

In conclusion of this chapter on "Disease and Its Pre- 
vention," I would emphasize the following points : 

1st. Above all things, never plant diseased potatoes. 

2nd. The more thorough the cultivation and the richer 
the soil, the less liable are the tubers to disease. 

3rd. Cull potatoes are responsible to a great extent for 
the increase of disease and should always be removed from 
the fields at harvest time. 

4th. In spraying it is well to use a high-pressure spray 
and a fine nozzle. 

5th. Never leave volunteer potatoes in the field from 
year to year, as it is these small diseased tubers that cause 
the spreading of disease. 




^:,J^^^:mri 



The Scottish Chief potato is the best marketable tuber 
known. 



HARVESTING AND MARKETING 85 



HARVESTING AND MARKETING. 



CHAPTER VII. 



>^^ ^a|\< 



HE first step in the grading of potatoes takes us 
back to the selection of seed. Unless good seed 
is selected to produce the crop, we cannot expect 
a yield of good marketable potatoes. The few 
potatoes produced from poor seed vary so greatly in size and 
shape and are of such poor quality that twice the amount 
of work is required to grade. However, it is just such poor 
stock that is generally found in the stores and markets, and, 
consequently, must be sold for a low price. If a strict sys- 
tem of seed selection and grading of the stock was used, a 
better price could be demanded, and the consumer would 
gladly pay the extra cost for the better quality. 

The general lot of potatoes found on the market are 
poor in quality, small, diseased, and, therefore, lacking in 
food value. The loss to the consumer, as well as the buyer 
and producer, is great, being about 50 per cent, whereas, po- 
tatoes grown from good, well-sorted seed are not only more 
palatable, but there is a very small per cent of waste. 

When a potato is cut lengthwise, in the center will be 
seen a layer resembling the trunk of a tree, with branches 



86 HARVESTING AND MARKETING 

running to each eye. This is called the internal medullary 
layer and consists chiefly of water. In the analysis of a po- 
tato with few eyes, it is found that it has much better food 
value, as it is largely indicated by starch content, and the 
part containing the most starch is near the surface. This 
is called the cortical layer. Thus, we would conclude that the 
potato with few eyes would not only be less waste, and be 
more palatable, but would contain more food material. 

In propagating and breeding my new potatoes I have 
always been most careful to select those that are smooth 
and with fewest eyes, and, consequently, have the best in 
food value. 

Unfortunately, the average grower has paid little atten- 
tion to the production of the good quality potato, but has 
grown them with as little expense as possible, regardless of 
the palatability, not once thinking of the expense of ship- 
ment of these culls, and, on account of the absence of starch, 
the short time in which they remain free from decay. The 
consumption of such potatoes is small, because of the un- 
palatability. However, they are called potatoes, and are 
used as an article of diet. 

If sixty per cent of the average run of potatoes were 
sent to market and about forty per cent kept to feed stock, 
the grower would gain more by those sent to market, be- 
cause of the higher price, besides having the forty per cent 
to feed stock. 

In my experience in handling graded stock, I have al- 
ways received from fifty to seventy-five cents more per hun- 
dred than most potato growers, and have always found an 
ever-ready market for such graded stock. 

I generally grade in two grades, but, if I only have one 
grade for market, that is always the best. When the dealer 
may depend on the grade there is always a ready market. 







^ M ir a:- 



Young's Early Harvest King. This is the greatest 
yielder of any early variety known, and is of excellent 
quality. 



HARVESTING AND MARKETING 89 

It is well when grading to grade as though you were buying 
the stock yourself. Every grower has his particular way 
of digging, but whether it be with plow, digger or hook, do 
not cut or bruise the tubers or throw them into piles, as they 
will rot easily if handled roughly. If grading for market 
while digging, the potatoes should be allowed to dry before 
being sacked, so the soil will not adhere to them, making 
them rough looking. However, they should never stay in 
the sun too long. Such treatment causes the tender tubers 
to green and decay quickly. 

If potatoes are not marketed immediately they should 
be kept in a cool, dry, shady place and covered so that the 
light, air or sun may not strike them. If it does they will 
turn green, and, in so doing, a chemical change takes place 
in the cortical layer, making the potato unpalatable, the 
flavor being rather sweetish, and sometimes bitter. 

In harvesting the early crop in particular, it is best to 
harvest before maturity — that is, before the vines are dry, 
so the disease cannot enter the tuber through the stem. In 
so doing the tubers will keep longer for seed or for market- 
able purposes. 

As to the quality of the potato, I may say that all con- 
ditions of environment that lead to the normal development 
of a healthy, mature potato contribute toward its quality. 
The potato planted in soil three inches deep is of poorer 
quality than those planted from five to seven inches deep. 
I find that when they are planted from five to seven inches 
deep the temperature is of more uniformity during the grow- 
ing season than at shallower depths. Not only does the depth 
at which the potato is planted determine its quality, but the 
fertilizer, season and variety as well. 

Fertilizers have a decided influence over the quality of 
the potato, as they aid in producing a normal development 



90 HARVESTING AND MARKETING 

of tubers by furnishing an element of fertility which is lack- 
ing in the soil. Some conditions that affect the table quality 
of the potato are, size, and shape, fertility of soil, cultiva- 
tion, climate and season, maturity, and in general the quali- 
ty is increased with the thickness of the cortical layer, and 
decreases as the number of eyes increase. 

In conclusion of this chapter, I would impress some 
points upon the reader's mind : 

1st. Use good grading system, thereby building up 
a good market for your particular grade. 

2nd. Never leave culls in the field to become a volun- 
teer crop the following season. This will finally cause the 
"running out" of the potato, and where disease is evident 
and the crop is harvested in this careless manner, the fol- 
lowing year will increase the amount of disease. 

3rd. Handle the tubers as little as possible, and care- 
fully. 



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